By Ilir Demalia
Photos by the author, Ilir Demalia
From Vlora to Ksamil
After 35 years in emigration, I finally found the opportunity to see with my own eyes the mesmerizing coastline of the Albanian Riviera—from Vlora to Butrint. This time I decided to make the journey myself, by car, experiencing every turn and every view like a personal pilgrimage to my homeland.
Vlora and the Magic of Belvedere
To begin with Vlora—the most beautiful and best urbanistically organized city today—is to witness a wonder in development. The Lungomare of Vlora promenade, stretching from the city center to Uji i Ftohtë, has been built with remarkable taste. Hotels and restaurants are placed without blocking one another’s view, respecting the visual harmony of the Bay of Vlora, with the Karaburun Peninsula across the water, the Sazan Island in the distance, and the port completing the panorama.
The Belvedere segment, from Rrapi to the Uji i Ftohtë Tunnel, forms a captivating ensemble. Hotels sit elegantly above the road, while below stretch pools and beaches carefully arranged with umbrellas and loungers, accompanied by exceptional service. The atmosphere is warm and relaxing—a place from which you do not easily depart.
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Hotel Belvedere
I chose to stay at Hotel Belvedere. From the moment I entered, beyond the professionalism of the staff, I was struck by the lobby’s atmosphere: a harmony of colors and a beautiful interior design where everything blended perfectly. The black marble floor with gray and creamy tones, dark-gray walls, a minimalist yet elegant reception desk, gray armchairs, a wooden table, and a reading corner with books and television created the feeling of a warm, almost family-like space.
Despite being only a visitor, I felt at home.
The room was spotless and well organized. When I opened the door, a large glass window revealed a breathtaking view: Sazan Island, the Karaburun Peninsula, and the deep blue sea. The balcony offered a 180-degree panorama—from the port to the Uji i Ftohtë tunnel—embracing the entire Lungomare.
Wooden floors and large windows allowed you to admire the sea even while lying in bed. The cleanliness was impeccable, creating a sense of peace and calm—a true paradise.
Breakfast and Service
In the morning we went to the fifth floor terrace for breakfast. The stunning view, the fresh and delicious organic food, and the classy service turned that morning into a rare experience—one I have not encountered even in many places around the world.
Later we spent the day by the giant pool below the hotel, close to the sea. Again, the cleanliness and service were of the highest level.
At sunset, walks from Rrapi to Uji i Ftohtë and a glass of wine on the hotel terrace were unforgettable. One night was far too little to fully enjoy such beauty.
Before leaving, I thanked Jona, the hotel’s manager, who personally ensures that every guest feels welcome and that everything runs perfectly.
I will certainly return to Hotel Belvedere very soon. It is worth it in every sense.
The Tunnel of Uji i Ftohtë and the Road to Orikum
The next morning I woke up early. After coffee on the balcony and a light breakfast, I decided to walk down to the Uji i Ftohtë Tunnel. The road, always embraced by the sea breeze of the Ionian, filled you with energy—you thought of nothing, simply enjoyed the moment.
The tunnel, which connects the city with the rest of the coast, has now become something of a tourist attraction. Well maintained, clean, green outside and softly lit inside, it invites curiosity rather than fear.
On the other side, a new panorama opened: sea, mountains, green hills, hotels scattered elegantly across the landscape, and vacationers swimming, strolling, or resting on sunbeds. Life there seemed simple, beautiful, and peaceful—as if that corner of Albania had received a divine blessing.
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Orikum and the Lagoon of Narta
We continued by car toward Orikum. The well-paved road, with little traffic, allowed us to admire an extraordinary landscape: to the left, hills covered with olive trees and citrus groves; to the right, the sea widening with colors shifting from deep blue to pale emerald.
At the entrance of Orikum we stopped for coffee. It is a small, calm town filled with the typical rhythm of summer: children playing, elderly people strolling, small shops, roadside restaurants, and the breathtaking view of the lagoon.
The Narta Lagoon is one of Albania’s natural jewels—an oasis of tranquility and biodiversity. Though less visited than the beaches, it is a place where nature still seems to speak. Migratory birds, especially flamingos, are among its most photographed inhabitants.
Palasa and the View from Llogara
After passing the tunnel, I thought of climbing toward Llogara Pass to see the coast from above—where once there was a military unit, known locally as “ke pisha flamur.”
From there the Ionian Sea unfolds magnificently, where sky and water merge on the horizon. The colors shift from deep blue to green, while the sunlight sparkles like a necklace of diamonds.
Below stretch the green landscapes of olive groves and citrus orchards, villages from Palasa to Ksamil, and in the distance the island of Corfu.
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Impressions of the Riviera
Soon I reached Dhërmi and Drimadhë. Dhërmi left a special impression. Unlike many other tourist areas, it has managed to retain some authenticity. The old village still stands proudly on the hill with its characteristic houses and stone streets.
In Drimadhë, new constructions are visible but mostly remain in harmony with nature. Only two new buildings appear completely foreign—imposed without sensitivity to the natural or architectural context.
Passing through Vuno, Jalë Beach, Himarë, and Potam Beach, I was relieved not to see massive urban destruction. These places still retain dignity and balance between development and preservation.
Porto Palermo – Discovering a Hidden Treasure
Porto Palermo Castle was a surprise. Before 1990 this area was closed to the public as a submarine base. Today the bay is calm and picturesque, with small clean beaches and limited construction that has not yet damaged the environment.
The fortress and the former submarine base create a unique attraction—a combination of history and nature that deserves careful protection.
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Qeparo – Borsh – Piqeras – Lukovë
Passing through Qeparo, Borsh, Piqeras, and Lukovë, the landscapes remained refreshing and largely untouched by uncontrolled construction.
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Saranda
At the entrance of Sarandë I stopped at Hotel Mediterranean, located above the Martyrs’ Cemetery. With spacious parking and impressive views of the bay, the hotel offers a terrace and pool patio overlooking the Ionian Sea like a scene from a fairy tale.
The rooms were clean and welcoming, each with a balcony bringing the sea almost into your hands.
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Hotel Demi
I had heard much about Hotel Demi and decided to stop for lunch. Located directly on the seafront, the hotel bears the name DEMI in large letters—imposing, much like the legendary Demi family of Filiati in Chameria.
The owner, Avenir Demi, was personally present overseeing everything.
There I met Brian K., an American from Boston, a general manager in the restaurant and hospitality network of Landry’s Inc., owned by Tilman Fertitta, who is also the owner of the Houston Rockets and currently the U.S. Ambassador to Italy.
Brian told me:
“I am deeply impressed by the hospitality, food quality, and service at Hotel Demi. The atmosphere is relaxing, tasteful, and world-class. This hotel is clearly a five-star elite destination. I will return in September with my wife.”
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Butrint – Untouched
The next day I visited Butrint National Park. Nothing had changed since my last visit in 1988—fortunately. The site remains protected as a historical zone.
Beauty, when it fills you with emotion, requires no commentary. You feel it in your body, in your breathing, in the beating of your heart.
A Blessed Land
The coast from Vlora to Butrint leaves a deep mark—from the wild beauty of nature to the culture of hospitality.
When you see Vlora from a balcony like that of Hotel Belvedere, feel the sea with your feet on the beach, hear the birds in Narta, watch a child playing in the sand, or admire the villages and landscapes along the coast—Palasa, Dhërmi, Drimadhë, Vuno, Jalë, Himara, Potam, Porto Palermo, Qeparo, Borsh, Piqeras, Lukovë, Saranda, and Butrint—you realize that this land is truly blessed by God.
With these thoughts, I took the small ferry across the Butrint Channel to visit the Ali Pasha Castle. Afterwards I continued by car through Albanian villages to Konispol and then toward Qafë Botë Pass, entering Epirus—through Filiates, Ioannina, Syvota, Parga, Arta, Plataria and Perdika.
And with every kilometer, the same thought remained: Albania is one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
